We are located in Louisville, KY. In Business Since ! Contact Us Anytime if you have questions, need assistance or would like us to look up parts Support arnoldservice.Clear 4-blink fault code on Honeywell water heater gas valve. High temperature shutdown. Try first!
We have had many people ask us about how to troubleshoot Honeywell Smart Valves. I hope this will help you to easily troubleshoot your furnace problems. Please email us anytime if you have a question.
Our email address is: support arnoldservice. We would love to try and help you out and Earn Your Business! We hope the following video will help:. I have a Comfortmaker furnace that is having challenges. It is having a hard time to keep running and heating the house. Besides swapping out the Smart Valve part is shipping in the next couple daysare there any other things I can check?
Hi John! I do not know any more to check out other than what is covered in the post above. You might make sure if you have not already that all your wire connections are good and tight and make sure the batteries are good in your thermostat if you have batteries.
Also, make sure you are getting a minimum of 24 volts between the R and C com terminals on your control board. Also, a minimum of 24 volts between W and C when the thermostat is calling for the heat to be ON.
Low voltage, a weak transformer can cause the clicking problems you are referring to. I hope you can get your furnace fixed up and running great soon! Call into tempstar tech support and he tells me try another igniter or another valve.
It is a LP gas unit and the input pressure is at 10 in wc…. Btw it was a SVm valve I used to replace the original with. Thanks in advance! Hi Kyle! I am very sorry that I do not know what the problem might be. I have a few thoughts on things you could check. You say the pilot is excessive. Make sure that you have an LP pilot orifice in the pilot burner assembly. Make sure all ground wires and wire connections are good and tight. Maybe there is a furnace control board problem. Sorry, I really do not know enough about the Honeywell Smartvalves to comment.
Bradford White water heater troubleshooting
This would upset me less if I had hot water meanwhile! And you also carry repair parts for other models that are now obsolete, right? Get a contractor model. Not only that, but people return their old ones, and parts of them at least can probably be reused in new hundred-plus dollar valves. The reset button only works if the overheating occurred in the heating chamber. In that case, the pilot light will not stay lit and you do not get the four flashes. Four flashes only happens if the water overheated — different problem.
When the circuit board in the gas valve detects the water-too-hot situation, it writes something into static memory in one of its chips, and the valve will never work again unless you can manage to reset it as described below.
Deliberately, maliciously, and probably under the pretense of safety. One of the comments below, describes a way to do this by hooking a battery to a couple of connection points on the board. First, get a new valve. You can open up both the old and replacement valve, and just swap the fronts of the valves, containing the recalcitrant circuit board, leaving the back part that connects to the gas pipes in place.
This does require one special tool, pictured at left. To begin, address the old gas valve. Probably not, but it was worth a try. Also turn the black dial to Off.
Remove the ivory-colored plastic front of the gas valve from the back of the unit. As shown below, you must:. Removing the cover of the insidious old gas valve. The cover is still attached to the back of the unit by a colorful ribbon of wires, with a plug at the end that connects to the circuit board. Tug gently, away from the board, to unplug the plug. Note which color is on which side.
Slide the ribbon of wires out of the clip on the housing, and the front of the gas valve is free. The result:.The Wall. Click here to Find a Contractor in your area. Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum. If you've found help here, check back in to let us know how everything worked out. It's a great way to thank those who helped you. Need to contact us?
RianS Member Posts: Subject is pilot outage. We put a smart valve on it about 1. Thanks Rian. PeterGriffin Member Posts: December When I was troubleshooting I determined there was volts going to the SV, and after going through the SV, should have powered the combustion motor. I was not getting power to the combustion motor. I replaced the valve, furnace works fine for three weeks.
Not unusually loud or anything obvious. Today I get a call-back to the house, same problem. Again, I replace the gas valve and the furnace runs fine. Why is this happening? My boss and I were unable to come up with a solution.
We thought of the combustion motor drawing too many amps and shorting out the gas valve, but the motor was drawing 2. Considered the possibilty of a short on the circuit board, but it seems highly unlikely as the board is a fused circuit. We reached the same conclusion when thinking about a power surge. Anything I'm overlooking? Thank you, Rankin. What code on the indicator lights were you getting?
It sound like to me your pressure switch is getting stuck and the closed position. Welcome to the wall. Charles G. Member Posts: Smart valve? Any signs of moisture? Fuse control board protects 24 volt circuit there.A bad gas valve in a Honeywell appliance such as a water heater or furnace that is powered by natural gas can go bad and affect the performance of the unit.
Because gas is involved, problems with gas valves are a major safety concern. A stuck valve could release gas into the air without regulation or the valve could cause the unit not to fire up at all. Troubleshooting the valve and looking for known common issues will give you peace of mind by ensuring the safe operation of your Honeywell appliance.
Turn off the gas supply valve to your appliance to test whether your valve is capable of shutting down properly. Set the thermostat or the device's controller slightly above the current room temperature. Locate the hot surface igniter and look for a spark or glow there.
There should not be a flame-up there if the valve is working correctly. Open the manual gas switch if the gas valve fails to operate and look to see if gas is flowing to the main burner or pilot. Set your thermostat to under the room's current temperature and let at least one minute pass to allow the appliance to attempt to get fuel. If it fires, it is working correctly. Allow the appliance to run through one complete cycle to ensure that the controls are functioning in the correct manner.
Turn the gas control knob to the "On" position if the main burner does not turn on when the thermostat or controller is adjusted to start the appliance.
Adjust the thermostat several degrees higher than your current room temperature. Check your instruction manual to determine the voltage that should be running at your control valve circuit. Test the voltage using an AC voltmeter. If the voltage is dead or not as rated, replace the valve. Work with gas in a ventilated area and without any open flames present. Call your local gas provider or Honeywell for further guidance.
See the Resources section for Honeywell contact information. Based in California, Dawn Quinn has been a freelance writer since She writes educational materials and conducts training seminars in the beauty industry and social-media field.
Hunker may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story. Proper gas valve adjustment can save your home from a devastating fire. Step 1 Turn off the gas supply valve to your appliance to test whether your valve is capable of shutting down properly. Step 2 Open the manual gas switch if the gas valve fails to operate and look to see if gas is flowing to the main burner or pilot. Step 3 Turn the gas control knob to the "On" position if the main burner does not turn on when the thermostat or controller is adjusted to start the appliance.Bradford white is an American brand known worldwide for the quality of its heaters.
In general, heaters Bradford are pretty simple in use. Their troubleshooting is not a special case. Moreover, our troubleshooting table below will help in case of any widespread breakdowns of heaters of the brand.
Referring to our table, you can determine the direction of the forthcoming repair. Supply voltaqe interrupted. One short flash every four seconds Stand-by mode, Thermostat is satisfied no faults Temperature demand is satisfied no call for heat Alternates bright and dim heartbeat Thermostat calling for heat no fault Tank temperature below setpoint of thermostat Short flash once every second Weak pilot signal on last call for heat 1.
Unstable pilot 2. Pilot tube blocked or restricted 3. Oxidation build-up on pilot electrode 4. Wire damage to pilot assembly or bad connection at gas control Two flashes, three second pause Damper test circuit not working 1.
Damper not in proper position or malfunctioning - stuck in open position 2. Obstructed venting 3. Faulty damper Three flashes, three second pause Damper test circuit not working 1. Damper not in proper position or malfunctioning - not reaching full open position 2. Faulty damper Four flashes, three second pause Excessive tank temperature, system must be reset 1.
Thermal well sensor out of calibration 2. Faulty gas control Five flashes, three second pause False pilot flame present Pilot valve stuck in open position Six flashes, one flash, three second pause Soft Lockout Failed to light pilot, system resets after 5 minutes 1.
Pilot tube block or restricted 3. Wire damage to pilot assembly or bad connection at aas valve Six flashes, two flashes, three second pause Soft Lockout Damper test circuit not working properly during burner operation, system auto resets after 5 minutes 1. Damper not in proper position or malfunctioning - damper moved from full open position during run cycle 2.
Faulty damper 4. Damper jostled during run cyde Six flashes, three flashes, three second pause Soft Lockout Pilot flame extinguished, system auto resets after 5 minutes 1. Wire damage to pilot assembly or bad connection at gas control 5. Insufficient combustion air 6. Insufficient qas pressure Six flashes, four flashes, three second pause Undesired false pilot flame sensed, system auto resets Pilot valve stuck in open position Seven flashes, three second pause Flammable vapor sensor or resettable thermal switch fault detected, see warning label 1.
Flammable vapor present 2. Flammable vapor sensor exposed to excessive moisture 3. Flammable vapor sensor exposed to extreme ambient temperature 4. Resettable thermal switch open Eight flashes,one flash, three second pause Flammable vapor sensor out of specification, possible short 1.Heating systems, such as gas-fired furnaces and boilers, need a control module for regulating heat output based on a user's thermostat setting.
A control module, like Honeywell's SU controller, attaches directly to the heating device, providing ignition sequencing for an efficient heater.
However, problems can arise that cause the Honeywell controller to malfunction. Simple troubleshooting techniques can be applied for solving the problem. The SU controller provides many safety functions for controlling a gas-powered heater. The controller's circuitry monitors the pilot's flame during heating operations, making sure that the flame height is not too small or large.
In addition, the controller activates the heating system's ignition sequence based on communications with the thermostat. Also, the gas supply will automatically shut off if the controller detects no flame from the furnace or boiler.
Problems With a S8610U Honeywell Controller
A common problem with a SU controller is improper grounding, causing intermittent functioning. The furnace's main burner must share a common ground with the ignition module controller, as well as the controller's internal ignition and flame sensor. Verify a ground wire extends from the controller's ground terminal position to the controller's mounting bracket screw. This system does not require an Earth ground. If the controller fails to produce a pilot light upon activation, check the gas supply.
Clogged or leaking gas lines can cause the heating appliance to fail completely. Additionally, confirm the gas valves are open for supplying gas to the pilot area. Verify the controller has adequate power applied to its circuitry for proper operations. The controller should stop the ignition spark once the pilot light has been lit.
However, the spark may continue to flash after ignition if the ignition cable is either shorted or detached. Verify the ignition cable is connected securely within its terminals. Also, confirm the cable is not contacting any metal body, causing a short within the system.
The SU Honeywell controller cannot be physically repaired. The entire module must be replaced if all troubleshooting efforts point to a malfunctioning controller circuit board. These boards cannot be repaired since the intricate circuitry prevents human alterations through soldering techniques. Honeywell controllers regulate gas boiler operations.
Honeywell Controller Features. No Pilot Light. Spark Malfunction. Repair Considerations.
Amy Rodriguez Writing professionally sinceAmy Rodriguez cultivates successful cacti, succulents, bulbs, carnivorous plants and orchids at home.
With an electronics degree and more than 10 years of experience, she applies her love of gadgets to the gardening world as she continues her education through college classes and gardening activities.
Show Comments.No hot water! This was 10pm two days ago. My first thought was that the water heater pilot light went out, based on my past experience. What else could it be? What a nifty device! The system kept coming back with 4 flashes. So I figured the system should reset itself once the over temperature condition goes away.
I kept resetting the system without much success to get the gas burner to turn on again. I googled around and came across this website by Tyler Tork. Wow, so many people had the same problem dating back to That sounded easy. I tried disconnecting it for 30 minutes. No go. I left it disconnected for overnight. Still no go. Then I took a sheet of aluminum foil an electricity conducting material and touch all the various solder joints silver-looking blobs especially the big capacitors, which are the energy storage devices.
See figures. Then I put it back to its housing and put everything back to its original positions. Turn on the pilot and hit the spark lighter. Then I proceeded to dial it up to temperature setting A.
Immediately, the burner turns on and we have a lift off! After a minute or so, the LED started blinking once and paused and blinking once again. Viva DIY!